30º acording to the termometer in my car and i’m sure its not off.
Driving to Simon’s place on friday afternoon to make a “Alpine plan” for the weekend.
“There is no way to climb anything down the vally with this heat so we have to go up.”
I totally agree with Simon but even making a plan with this heat is hard.
2 Cold beers later and we are still not sure, there is a lot off snow. And the idea of the long hike tot the end of the Glacier Noire to climb the Aguile Ailifroide with loads off soft snow is not really tempting.
So we dicid to stay close to Grenoble lets go to Presles. The big south face wil be very hot during the day but the east face wil be fine in the late afternoon.
So we drive the car up slowly to not be to early and arrive at 14:00 in Presles. To find out that the topo says we have to park on the top of the cliff not the bottem… So it’s alreay 16:00 when we arrive at the bottem of the cliff after a 1,5 hour walk/ scramble down the ramp.
The 6c start is for Simon he is the stronger climber and this is his home crack. We climb some very nice technical lines. And truly enjoy the great rock.
The fourth pitch I’m climbing up a technical sligtly overhanging line.
I find this great inverted hold with a very nice long move to a small finger pocket. It makes me think ..
This reminds me of a article by Bart van Raaij in “de Blok” saying that only bouldering is “Pure climbing” because “only” with bouldering its about “enjoying and finding the perfect hold and best movement “..
So here I’am 150 M off the deck climbing a traditional line 10 Meters above my last cam.
Enjoying this great move from a perfect hold such great move! What a great line!
The next 6c A1 acording to Arnoud Petit (Presles topo says 7b+)pitch is also for Simon A overhanging off-with very round and slippery. Even the cams don’t really like it. This I only find out trying to second the pitch and find 2 cams at the crux totally strangling the rope and blocking this one good handjam. After a fight the cams are free’d and I finish the pitch.
The last 2 pitches are also a mix of technical slab and a great crack line. Unfortunately I mis the belay and find myself in the middle of a slab with So much ropedrag its nearly impossible to go up. and down will be a long flight..
Then I see a bold to the left only a other 10 meter’s up. I battle my way up cursing and stretching the rope . To make a belay on this bold only 3 meters from the top off the cliff but unable to climb any further.
Simon seconds mister funny: hey you missed the belay :) .. At 20:00 we Topt the route, finally of that bold in the middle of the slab.. What a great line! and a good time.
Presles Les cons qui s’adorent “One beautiful reversed hold”
30º acording to the termometer in my car and i’m sure its not off.
Driving to Simon’s place on friday afternoon to make a “Alpine plan” for the weekend.
“There is no way to climb anything down the vally with this heat so we have to go up.”
I totally agree with Simon but even making a plan with this heat is hard.
2 Cold beers later and we are still not sure, there is a lot off snow. And the idea of the long hike tot the end of the Glacier Noire to climb the Aguile Ailifroide with loads off soft snow is not really tempting.
So we dicid to stay close to Grenoble lets go to Presles. The big south face wil be very hot during the day but the east face wil be fine in the late afternoon.
So we drive the car up slowly to not be to early and arrive at 14:00 in Presles. To find out that the topo says we have to park on the top of the cliff not the bottem… So it’s alreay 16:00 when we arrive at the bottem of the cliff after a 1,5 hour walk/ scramble down the ramp.
The 6c start is for Simon he is the stronger climber and this is his home crack. We climb some very nice technical lines. And truly enjoy the great rock.
The fourth pitch I’m climbing up a technical sligtly overhanging line.
I find this great inverted hold with a very nice long move to a small finger pocket. It makes me think ..
This reminds me of a article by Bart van Raaij in “de Blok” saying that only bouldering is “Pure climbing” because “only” with bouldering its about “enjoying and finding the perfect hold and best movement “..
So here I’am 150 M off the deck climbing a traditional line 10 Meters above my last cam.
Enjoying this great move from a perfect hold such great move! What a great line!
The next 6c A1 acording to Arnoud Petit (Presles topo says 7b+)pitch is also for Simon A overhanging off-with very round and slippery. Even the cams don’t really like it. This I only find out trying to second the pitch and find 2 cams at the crux totally strangling the rope and blocking this one good handjam. After a fight the cams are free’d and I finish the pitch.
The last 2 pitches are also a mix of technical slab and a great crack line. Unfortunately I mis the belay and find myself in the middle of a slab with So much ropedrag its nearly impossible to go up. and down will be a long flight..
Then I see a bold to the left only a other 10 meter’s up. I battle my way up cursing and stretching the rope . To make a belay on this bold only 3 meters from the top off the cliff but unable to climb any further.
Simon seconds mister funny: hey you missed the belay :) .. At 20:00 we Topt the route, finally of that bold in the middle of the slab.. What a great line! and a good time.
Thanx Simon.
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