We where driving over a small mountain pass from Austria to Italy still trying to process last weekends Worldcup. And after some wild snowy hair pins and spindrifst Marianne suddenly says Wow stop.. I stop de Bus and there it is a promotion Worldcup poster with me on it :) .
For me its a perfect moment to set a new horizon and focus on the upcoming competition. Driving down to Meran we see even more posters and billboards. A very cool welcome to the World Championship.
After inscription and the opening ceremony in the town center of Meran there was a Speed show event on the town square. The best 8th ranked speed climbers were invited to participate. Unfortunately I was not qualified this year.
So we drove up to Rabenstein and Parked in our “private” parking spot behind the Icetower. All set nice and warm form the electric heating we hoped for a good night rest. But some how my coughing grew worse during the night so a restless night for both of us.
8:30 Isolation closes. There are 3 routes; 2 for the men and one for the women to qualify for the Semifinals.
I’m climbing as 6th so just a little time to warm up . Marianne is unlucky and climbs as 24th one of the last out of the Isolation zone.
Just back in Isolation and I want to start the warm-up and suddenly the yell my name.. Huh WTF.. Dennis you have to go.. They brought me to the second isolation and here a 6 climbers already waiting. So its fully packed and not really a space to warm-up / move around. after 15 min in the second Isolation I’m up. Not warmed up properly I start my climb and feel that my hands are cold and a flash-pump is coming up. I have to shake my arms every other move. Moving slow but steady from hold to hold. Scared to slip off like my climb in Saas Fee. I reach the roof and they tell me last minute.. No way try to push the pedal to the Metal and go for it. Going dynamic for the next undercling. Moving to the volume on to a sketchy rock hold. make my clip and swing in to the Ice. I hit the ice hole and all of a sudden my right tool slips off the rockhold. and my left is ripping through the ice. and I fly upside down with my crampons stuck in the rope.. No way..
At least it was half way up and I was near the end of my climbing time.
3 Coffee’s, a sun bathe and some self pityness further Marianne is the next to climb. A route that seems like her style. Loads of Real ice and than technical drytool boulder style to the top.
After a quick start she climbs smoothly through the ice. On to the dry section. Using as one of the few here hand on the first rockhold. Reaching up from a small ledge a big move to a slippy rock hold. This is where most of the girls before Marianne popped of. She locks off stretching and still 5 cm short of this enormous reach. with a small dynamic move she is on to the slippery rock hold.. Moving in to a figure of four wrapping here leg around the rope and makes it to the next hold. Trying to move on to the next hold.. And she times out. not really satisfied with the result unknowing she made the Semifinal as 5th woman!
I go with Marianne in to the Isolation for the Semifinal for mental support and helping out. After waiting for ever she is taking out of isolation for the second isolation. I run for my speed climbing gear as time is closing in to the speed qualifications. Mariannes starts climbing slowly but steady I try to put on my speed climbing gear while cheering to Marianne Go Go go girl. Obviously not trusting any holds after the sketchy qualification climb, she moves on steady and careful. into the Ice traverse she is speeding up a little I keep cheering GO go go. While putting on my last Speedclimbing shoe . She climbs into the final roof. with only one minute to go. she climbs 2 holds up makes a clip moves to the third hold in the roof. and times out. Just missing the finals with one more hold fixed.. what if what if…
Its time for me to climb the speed. Doing a very nice first run with 15 second’s feeling strong. but not able to make the time any better the next run I thought I would not make the finals. But it turns out I’m going to the finals as 15 th from 18 climbers.
Unfortunately me and Marianne where not able to make it to the podium in the speed finals and both ended up at the 14th place…
UIAA Worldchampionship Ice Climbing Rabenstein
We where driving over a small mountain pass from Austria to Italy still trying to process last weekends Worldcup. And after some wild snowy hair pins and spindrifst Marianne suddenly says Wow stop.. I stop de Bus and there it is a promotion Worldcup poster with me on it :) .
For me its a perfect moment to set a new horizon and focus on the upcoming competition. Driving down to Meran we see even more posters and billboards. A very cool welcome to the World Championship.
After inscription and the opening ceremony in the town center of Meran there was a Speed show event on the town square. The best 8th ranked speed climbers were invited to participate. Unfortunately I was not qualified this year.
So we drove up to Rabenstein and Parked in our “private” parking spot behind the Icetower. All set nice and warm form the electric heating we hoped for a good night rest. But some how my coughing grew worse during the night so a restless night for both of us.
8:30 Isolation closes. There are 3 routes; 2 for the men and one for the women to qualify for the Semifinals.
I’m climbing as 6th so just a little time to warm up . Marianne is unlucky and climbs as 24th one of the last out of the Isolation zone.
Just back in Isolation and I want to start the warm-up and suddenly the yell my name.. Huh WTF.. Dennis you have to go.. They brought me to the second isolation and here a 6 climbers already waiting. So its fully packed and not really a space to warm-up / move around. after 15 min in the second Isolation I’m up. Not warmed up properly I start my climb and feel that my hands are cold and a flash-pump is coming up. I have to shake my arms every other move. Moving slow but steady from hold to hold. Scared to slip off like my climb in Saas Fee. I reach the roof and they tell me last minute.. No way try to push the pedal to the Metal and go for it. Going dynamic for the next undercling. Moving to the volume on to a sketchy rock hold. make my clip and swing in to the Ice. I hit the ice hole and all of a sudden my right tool slips off the rockhold. and my left is ripping through the ice. and I fly upside down with my crampons stuck in the rope.. No way..
At least it was half way up and I was near the end of my climbing time.
3 Coffee’s, a sun bathe and some self pityness further Marianne is the next to climb. A route that seems like her style. Loads of Real ice and than technical drytool boulder style to the top.
After a quick start she climbs smoothly through the ice. On to the dry section. Using as one of the few here hand on the first rockhold. Reaching up from a small ledge a big move to a slippy rock hold. This is where most of the girls before Marianne popped of. She locks off stretching and still 5 cm short of this enormous reach. with a small dynamic move she is on to the slippery rock hold.. Moving in to a figure of four wrapping here leg around the rope and makes it to the next hold. Trying to move on to the next hold.. And she times out. not really satisfied with the result unknowing she made the Semifinal as 5th woman!
I go with Marianne in to the Isolation for the Semifinal for mental support and helping out. After waiting for ever she is taking out of isolation for the second isolation. I run for my speed climbing gear as time is closing in to the speed qualifications. Mariannes starts climbing slowly but steady I try to put on my speed climbing gear while cheering to Marianne Go Go go girl. Obviously not trusting any holds after the sketchy qualification climb, she moves on steady and careful. into the Ice traverse she is speeding up a little I keep cheering GO go go. While putting on my last Speedclimbing shoe . She climbs into the final roof. with only one minute to go. she climbs 2 holds up makes a clip moves to the third hold in the roof. and times out. Just missing the finals with one more hold fixed.. what if what if…
Its time for me to climb the speed. Doing a very nice first run with 15 second’s feeling strong. but not able to make the time any better the next run I thought I would not make the finals. But it turns out I’m going to the finals as 15 th from 18 climbers.
Unfortunately me and Marianne where not able to make it to the podium in the speed finals and both ended up at the 14th place…
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