Climbing gym I-vy hosted the last of four lead-competitions. And I wanted to compete, to ensure my place in the Dutch Championships and also to see what my place is today between the other competitors.
Love-hate
Competing for me is a love-hate relationship. It all depends through which glasses you see it.
I Love it, when it goes well, and I like to see what I can do. Not even what I can do compared to the others, but just to see what I can climb that day.
I hate it too, because I find it utterly scary to climb when everyone is watching. And it really doesn’t improve my performance.
I also know, I can train the fear, change it. Slowly, just a little, but it’s possible.
And the Dutch comps are a relatively safe place to train, compared to the big international world cups Iceclimbing.
So there I went; the nights before I was quite stressed, thinking of the comp over-and-over again. But I could tell myself it was okay, I’d be okay.
A lot better compared to a few years ago where I threw up several times because of nervousness. -really, I don’t know why my mind plays those stupid tricks on me-
For this competition I put myself a new approach; put myself in the picture, as much as possible instead of trying to be as closed and ‘invisible’ as possible I chose an outfit that can’t be missed.
Pink lycra 80’s leggings was the thing.
Apparently on IFSC comps you’re not allowed to wear a bra-top, so I had to ask for permission to wear my top.
I was pretty sure people would look at it and have an opinion.
‘What the hell is she wearing’
‘Is such a top allowed?!’
‘Those lycra’s are so wrong’
‘Awesome colours’
‘Omg, there you have her again’
…
Qualifiers at I-vy. Actually I like climbing in a top, it feels more free compared to a tight and sweaty t-shirt.
In control
Why this outfit?
> To get used to the idea people watch me when I climb, have an opinion about my climbing and probably talk about it all without me hearing what they have to say.
For some reason I always need to be in control. In control of my climbing and my environment. That is one of the explanations on why climbing is such a passion for me; it’s a world I need to be in control to keep it safe. Every little aspect around me needs to be perfect to be able to climb up.
I can’t control other people, and so other people are scary. -at least, that is what my mind tells me-
Rationally thinking this sounds just stupid, psychotic…? And well, maybe it is.
So. Climbing a route on-shight (like on competitions) is something that is rather difficult for me, as I don’t know the holds beforehand, I don’t know what the others have done in their attempt, and I’m not allowed to down-climb and take a second look when something doesn’t go right. And in case of competitions; people are watching.
So there I went; first steps into what turned out to be a rather easy qualification: 6c.
And a second quali; t-shirt out, all ready. Top again. And still not a super hard route I found.
And thus time for finals.
Now I had to go for it. Overhang, I should be good at this stuff with all my drytooling.
The first move was one without feet; it confused me, I had to use more power then expected to make the move. It turned me into ‘safe modus’ where my mind tells me to move slowling, secure, not to fall. And that means static movements; a big loss of energy when climbing a overhanging route.
The holds were fine but I couldn’t change my movements into anything dynamic. A million thoughts crossed my mind when making the moves. A million ‘what-if’s’. I lost power rapidly, lost my feet…and came of far too early in the route.
Damn!
I felt ashamed of my stupid performance.
I was jealous of my friend Aniek. She did so good! Reached all the way to the single-last hold, resulting in a deserved second place. How did she do that?!
Picture by Paul Lahaye
It was good though; I need to train this stuff to get better. Change from static into dynamic, deal with disappointing results. Get better, stronger.
Just a few weeks left before the national championships…
Drytool wall
Meanwhile we’ve been busy with the winter season.
The agenda of all iceclimbing world cups has been announced and we’re building something awesome.
I helped out a few days with the wall, but all big credits goe to Ralph and Dirk-Jan who have been building day-in day-out on the new drytool wall in Utrecht!
Next to sports climbing we might have a full-time training here now :)
Sportsclimbing comps
Last week I went all the way to Sittard.
Climbing gym I-vy hosted the last of four lead-competitions. And I wanted to compete, to ensure my place in the Dutch Championships and also to see what my place is today between the other competitors.
Love-hate
Competing for me is a love-hate relationship. It all depends through which glasses you see it.
I Love it, when it goes well, and I like to see what I can do. Not even what I can do compared to the others, but just to see what I can climb that day.
I hate it too, because I find it utterly scary to climb when everyone is watching. And it really doesn’t improve my performance.
I also know, I can train the fear, change it. Slowly, just a little, but it’s possible.
And the Dutch comps are a relatively safe place to train, compared to the big international world cups Iceclimbing.
So there I went; the nights before I was quite stressed, thinking of the comp over-and-over again. But I could tell myself it was okay, I’d be okay.
A lot better compared to a few years ago where I threw up several times because of nervousness. -really, I don’t know why my mind plays those stupid tricks on me-
For this competition I put myself a new approach; put myself in the picture, as much as possible instead of trying to be as closed and ‘invisible’ as possible I chose an outfit that can’t be missed.
Pink lycra 80’s leggings was the thing.
Apparently on IFSC comps you’re not allowed to wear a bra-top, so I had to ask for permission to wear my top.
I was pretty sure people would look at it and have an opinion.
‘What the hell is she wearing’
‘Is such a top allowed?!’
‘Those lycra’s are so wrong’
‘Awesome colours’
‘Omg, there you have her again’
…
Qualifiers at I-vy. Actually I like climbing in a top, it feels more free compared to a tight and sweaty t-shirt.
In control
Why this outfit?
> To get used to the idea people watch me when I climb, have an opinion about my climbing and probably talk about it all without me hearing what they have to say.
For some reason I always need to be in control. In control of my climbing and my environment. That is one of the explanations on why climbing is such a passion for me; it’s a world I need to be in control to keep it safe. Every little aspect around me needs to be perfect to be able to climb up.
I can’t control other people, and so other people are scary. -at least, that is what my mind tells me-
Rationally thinking this sounds just stupid, psychotic…? And well, maybe it is.
So. Climbing a route on-shight (like on competitions) is something that is rather difficult for me, as I don’t know the holds beforehand, I don’t know what the others have done in their attempt, and I’m not allowed to down-climb and take a second look when something doesn’t go right. And in case of competitions; people are watching.
So there I went; first steps into what turned out to be a rather easy qualification: 6c.
And a second quali; t-shirt out, all ready. Top again. And still not a super hard route I found.
And thus time for finals.
Now I had to go for it. Overhang, I should be good at this stuff with all my drytooling.
The first move was one without feet; it confused me, I had to use more power then expected to make the move. It turned me into ‘safe modus’ where my mind tells me to move slowling, secure, not to fall. And that means static movements; a big loss of energy when climbing a overhanging route.
The holds were fine but I couldn’t change my movements into anything dynamic. A million thoughts crossed my mind when making the moves. A million ‘what-if’s’. I lost power rapidly, lost my feet…and came of far too early in the route.
Damn!
I felt ashamed of my stupid performance.
I was jealous of my friend Aniek. She did so good! Reached all the way to the single-last hold, resulting in a deserved second place. How did she do that?!
Picture by Paul Lahaye
It was good though; I need to train this stuff to get better. Change from static into dynamic, deal with disappointing results. Get better, stronger.
Just a few weeks left before the national championships…
Drytool wall
Meanwhile we’ve been busy with the winter season.
The agenda of all iceclimbing world cups has been announced and we’re building something awesome.
I helped out a few days with the wall, but all big credits goe to Ralph and Dirk-Jan who have been building day-in day-out on the new drytool wall in Utrecht!
Next to sports climbing we might have a full-time training here now :)
More news about this new wall soon…
Picture by Fedor Broekhoven.
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