Living for 3 months in the South of Germany now . And since last week Marianne finally joined me after her 1600KM walk.
Lucky her, last 2 weeks its really cold with clear nights. So the Ice and Mixed conditions are getting good.
Last weekend we made our first visit to Starzlachklamm with my colleagues from the development department.
We climbed a Nice M8 some M9’s and I made the first second go Rotpunkt ascent of a new route Daniel Gebel Bolted “Arsch bumpe” M10+ (after Marianne made the first accent Flash! :p ) .
Marianne tried to OS climb a M11 “Pappi’s kleine Liebling” another route made by Daniel . She worked all the moves Nicely but got her hand stuck.
So I went for the flash attempt. After I get my Nomic stuck in the negative roof I popped with one axe and swung through the air hanging on the other axe. Totally tired/panicking I could not find the next hold. I made some moves on the wrong holds sketched off but somehow managed to overcome the roof. Climbing up the slightly overhang I had to make the last hard move. Afraid to screw up the Flash attempt I hung around resting for ever.
Finally I made the big move from a torque/ side pull I went full dynamic for the horizontal ice filled crack. My lower axe popped. And so dit the top axe it ripped trough the ice. So I found my self falling in to the lip of the roof sparks flying from my crampons.. Sooo disappointed..
So a full week to think about a new project :p .
This weekend 14 december the conditions seemed to be good so we went back tot Starzlachklamm. The Edelrid/Vaude Christmas party and going to bed at 2:30 are not the best preparation. But with a slow breakfast and a late start we should be fine.
On the drive in Marianne was reading Will Gadd’s blogposthttp://willgadd.com/a very inspiring write up that was describing/making fun of modded tools,”Olympics” and all the things we have been discussing last months. He’s so right in my opinion.
So after the drive and inspiring write-up from Will Gadd I was totally Mixed up ready to go.
I was holding my self back on the walk in not trying to run to the crack. Either way I was standing ready all geard up under the M8 warmed up when the others arrived.
After the M8 we took a look at the M13 that Michi Wohlleben Bolted back in 2009. It’s supposed to cross the full roof crossing all the other M10-M12 routes. But the longer we watched the more the line of bolts seemed to be a big zigzag with every 2 meters a Y crossing. So we figured we needed some inside information to be able to find the correct line.
Our friends Simon and Simon where climbing the waterfall next to the mixed area a nice WI4. And later they were climbing the M8 as well.
Back to the M11, by now I was getting nervous looking forward for the whole week to just climb this thing ofcourse I wanted to climb it in the seccond go.
Going trough the moves with Marianne before the start I felt almost ready. The first move is from a instable tower of rocks putting your tool on a small hold you can’t see from the moving tower. From here a little jump lock off to the next hold and your off. Climbing the negatvie roof in a sequence of figure of 4/figure of 8’s moving to the end of the roof. Of course I get my axe stuck again.Crushing my fingers inbetween the wall and my tool.. From here I wasnt sure …watch me Marianne watch me.. Feeling out of control I try to climb over the lip of the roof. I dint want to clip early too afraid that if I would get rope out I would pop off and hit the deck.
So climbing to the next draw on a hold I’m not trusting my axe is stuck again. Trying to get it unstuck moving around pulling jerking, the axe finaly lets go and so does my heel hook. Swinging in to the the top tool on a shit hold every thing goes in slowmo hanging half upside down on a shit hold. tool pops and I fly off in a swing going slowly more upside down and suddenly I see the ground coming very close I give a scream hitting the ground with my tools the tools scatter off and I’m swing half a meter with my head above the ground.
Oef nice catch Marianne. totally shaky I know I have to get back on the route try the last moves again straight away. Prusikking back-up making the final moves.
Marianne is cold after my attempt. She tries to warm up and get ready. Starting super stable with a figure of four and going slow but steady through the roof. I’m still scared from my fall so I’m trying to hold her as tight as possible to prevent a grounder. After the first 6 moves she get’s here axe stuck and is struggling, suddenly decides to clip early and puls the rope hard. As I’m holding the rope tight the Grigri blocks and she isn’t able to get the amount of rope she wants that moment. I try to give more but the short panic pulls of rope keeps blocking the grigri. She moves back into the figure of 8 and clips from here. Than she is able to make 2 more moves but I feel like I fucked up here attempt in my fear of here hitting the deck…
So it’s my turn again. I work my way up still scared to ground, but steady grunting and moaning I work my way up. Clip marianne owww,,, no clip… OK its clipped I’m going for it.. And I top out happy to finish. But Marianne din’t make it so a shadow is hanging over my accent.
By now it’s getting really dark and we get the headlight out. Climbing a route in the dark with headlights is always more challenging even knowing the sequence, the light shadow play gives a different sight. Marianne start super steady not saying a word.
Climbing slowly through the roof. Going down over the lip. The Nomic get’s stuck in the usual place. But with a small kick with the feet its free again. Hanging under de final crux she takes a big rest and finishes off the route. YES we both made the route.
Getting MiXed-UP
Living for 3 months in the South of Germany now . And since last week Marianne finally joined me after her 1600KM walk.
Lucky her, last 2 weeks its really cold with clear nights. So the Ice and Mixed conditions are getting good.
Last weekend we made our first visit to Starzlachklamm with my colleagues from the development department.
We climbed a Nice M8 some M9’s and I made the first second go Rotpunkt ascent of a new route Daniel Gebel Bolted “Arsch bumpe” M10+ (after Marianne made the first accent Flash! :p ) .
Marianne tried to OS climb a M11 “Pappi’s kleine Liebling” another route made by Daniel . She worked all the moves Nicely but got her hand stuck.
So I went for the flash attempt. After I get my Nomic stuck in the negative roof I popped with one axe and swung through the air hanging on the other axe. Totally tired/panicking I could not find the next hold. I made some moves on the wrong holds sketched off but somehow managed to overcome the roof. Climbing up the slightly overhang I had to make the last hard move. Afraid to screw up the Flash attempt I hung around resting for ever.
Finally I made the big move from a torque/ side pull I went full dynamic for the horizontal ice filled crack. My lower axe popped. And so dit the top axe it ripped trough the ice. So I found my self falling in to the lip of the roof sparks flying from my crampons.. Sooo disappointed..
So a full week to think about a new project :p .
This weekend 14 december the conditions seemed to be good so we went back tot Starzlachklamm. The Edelrid/Vaude Christmas party and going to bed at 2:30 are not the best preparation. But with a slow breakfast and a late start we should be fine.
On the drive in Marianne was reading Will Gadd’s blogpost http://willgadd.com/ a very inspiring write up that was describing/making fun of modded tools,”Olympics” and all the things we have been discussing last months. He’s so right in my opinion.
So after the drive and inspiring write-up from Will Gadd I was totally Mixed up ready to go.
I was holding my self back on the walk in not trying to run to the crack. Either way I was standing ready all geard up under the M8 warmed up when the others arrived.
After the M8 we took a look at the M13 that Michi Wohlleben Bolted back in 2009. It’s supposed to cross the full roof crossing all the other M10-M12 routes. But the longer we watched the more the line of bolts seemed to be a big zigzag with every 2 meters a Y crossing. So we figured we needed some inside information to be able to find the correct line.
Our friends Simon and Simon where climbing the waterfall next to the mixed area a nice WI4. And later they were climbing the M8 as well.
Back to the M11, by now I was getting nervous looking forward for the whole week to just climb this thing ofcourse I wanted to climb it in the seccond go.
Going trough the moves with Marianne before the start I felt almost ready. The first move is from a instable tower of rocks putting your tool on a small hold you can’t see from the moving tower. From here a little jump lock off to the next hold and your off. Climbing the negatvie roof in a sequence of figure of 4/figure of 8’s moving to the end of the roof. Of course I get my axe stuck again.Crushing my fingers inbetween the wall and my tool.. From here I wasnt sure …watch me Marianne watch me.. Feeling out of control I try to climb over the lip of the roof. I dint want to clip early too afraid that if I would get rope out I would pop off and hit the deck.
So climbing to the next draw on a hold I’m not trusting my axe is stuck again. Trying to get it unstuck moving around pulling jerking, the axe finaly lets go and so does my heel hook. Swinging in to the the top tool on a shit hold every thing goes in slowmo hanging half upside down on a shit hold. tool pops and I fly off in a swing going slowly more upside down and suddenly I see the ground coming very close I give a scream hitting the ground with my tools the tools scatter off and I’m swing half a meter with my head above the ground.
Oef nice catch Marianne. totally shaky I know I have to get back on the route try the last moves again straight away. Prusikking back-up making the final moves.
Marianne is cold after my attempt. She tries to warm up and get ready. Starting super stable with a figure of four and going slow but steady through the roof. I’m still scared from my fall so I’m trying to hold her as tight as possible to prevent a grounder. After the first 6 moves she get’s here axe stuck and is struggling, suddenly decides to clip early and puls the rope hard. As I’m holding the rope tight the Grigri blocks and she isn’t able to get the amount of rope she wants that moment. I try to give more but the short panic pulls of rope keeps blocking the grigri. She moves back into the figure of 8 and clips from here. Than she is able to make 2 more moves but I feel like I fucked up here attempt in my fear of here hitting the deck…
So it’s my turn again. I work my way up still scared to ground, but steady grunting and moaning I work my way up. Clip marianne owww,,, no clip… OK its clipped I’m going for it.. And I top out happy to finish. But Marianne din’t make it so a shadow is hanging over my accent.
By now it’s getting really dark and we get the headlight out. Climbing a route in the dark with headlights is always more challenging even knowing the sequence, the light shadow play gives a different sight. Marianne start super steady not saying a word.
Climbing slowly through the roof. Going down over the lip. The Nomic get’s stuck in the usual place. But with a small kick with the feet its free again. Hanging under de final crux she takes a big rest and finishes off the route. YES we both made the route.
For more see Mariannes write-up :http://lavinia-marianne.blogspot.nl
Next stop M13…
Pictures :Simon Graf, Marianne van der Steen
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