After Mamolada we made some rest days and made some sporty climbs to have a mental rest.
We made some nice climbs on the Sella pass.
Getting more and more motivated to climb something big again.
The Hasse Brandler supposed to be a great line with the best rock on the Große Zinne…
We are still looking for the good rock here…
To-be first on the wall we woke up at 04:00 to find the windows covert in Ice not n(ice) to go climb some hard trad…
So we waited till 07:00 to find other climbers also waiting in there cars even for Dave Macleod it was still to cold :p .
Topo from planetmountain.com
When we finally arrived under the wall there where already 2 party´s on route some Spanish guys with a haul bag and 2 Austrians.
We waited for them to get on there way. But at every pitch we had to wait for 30 min til the next pitch was free…
The first pitches where very cold and the rock was OK.. we arrived at the good ledges at pitch 7 spirit was high singing and laughing.
Singing ” We climb never a big wall no more, no more“.
The rock became worse in the traverse and I hated to climb the 6B traverse.
Than after a lot of waiting we decided to climb on and properly finish te route in the dark because of the Spanish climbers how get there tag line and lead rope f*cked up every pitch…
Harald started climbing the “easy” grade 5 traverse. He climbed out of sight, we’re still laughing and singing at the ledge. Harald suddenly jells Sjors LET OP(take care..). we became silent.. Suddenly a scream and than “hold me hoooolldd” Poingg…
And I see Harald flying by in a Big pendulum fal the first piece popped and than the rope drags over the top of a flake.. panngg and the mantel of the rope is gone.. Luckily the old peg the only other piece stays in place.
Harald hanging below over 15 Meters under us..
Your oke? yeahh just my hip and ankle.. I will climb back up now.. NOO
Wait there hold on to the wall we get you a new rope. So we threw our rope down to Harld.
He quickly tight in and started climbing up. We made a hoist to support him.
When Harald made it to the top we put him down gave him a rest. While he experienced the last effect of the adrenaline rush he was getting white..
He asked for water but was clearly in shock condition so he dint gett any. After taking his climbing shoes off and putting hiking shoes on it was very clear we had to go down.
So we waited with the painkiller and trying to get reorganised. Than Harald fainted…
When he was getting better we gave him some painkillers and made our way down abseilen traversing.
After the rappel we made it to the hut to find a mountain rescue Jeep with some luck and made our way home.