Thursday afternoon.. An other day at the office. Benoit one of my Petzl colleges Ā comes up to me.
If I wanted to come with him tomorrow to climb the Northface of the Meije. The weather supposed to be very good and his friend just canceled..
Uuuh Wy not . So next morning 6 o’ clock we left for an early start to be at the refuge early for a good rest. After the 6 hour approach(2000M of steep rock and glacier hiking) a good rest is very welcome.
Saturday morning 2:00 breakfast time after a bad altitude night trying to get ready for the climb. So 2:45 we finally crossed the glacier to la BrĆŖche de la Meije. To decent to the bottom of the North face.
There we climbed the mixed pitches simultaneous. And I managed to go a bit to far left so we climbed some M5 pitches witch are not supposed to be in the route. A lot of very hard white ice and soft suger snow.
At 8:30 we arrived at the Breche Glacier carre.
From where we climbed the last mixed part to Grand Pic de la Meije 3984M . And arrived at 10:00.
From this point the fun was over for me. The ātraversee des aretesā was not so nice. The rappel down to the Zsigmondy is Ok but after you have to traverse trough a line of fixed ropes. And of course the cables where covered in ice and we found our selvess climbing more steep hard ice. after climbing the four āDenteā we rappel down to the Glacier and walked back to the refudge. The snow was very soft but we arrived at 16:00 in the sun after 1 hour of snow plowing.
Sunday morning 5:30 time to go down after a other bad night with loads of rain and storms the snow din’t freese up. So it was a long way down.
Meije North face Voi du Z
Thursday afternoon.. An other day at the office. Benoit one of my Petzl colleges Ā comes up to me.
If I wanted to come with him tomorrow to climb the Northface of the Meije. The weather supposed to be very good and his friend just canceled..
Uuuh Wy not . So next morning 6 o’ clock we left for an early start to be at the refuge early for a good rest. After the 6 hour approach(2000M of steep rock and glacier hiking) a good rest is very welcome.
Saturday morning 2:00 breakfast time after a bad altitude night trying to get ready for the climb. So 2:45 we finally crossed the glacier to la BrĆŖche de la Meije. To decent to the bottom of the North face.
There we climbed the mixed pitches simultaneous. And I managed to go a bit to far left so we climbed some M5 pitches witch are not supposed to be in the route. A lot of very hard white ice and soft suger snow.
At 8:30 we arrived at the Breche Glacier carre.
From where we climbed the last mixed part to Grand Pic de la Meije 3984M . And arrived at 10:00.
From this point the fun was over for me. The ātraversee des aretesā was not so nice. The rappel down to the Zsigmondy is Ok but after you have to traverse trough a line of fixed ropes. And of course the cables where covered in ice and we found our selvess climbing more steep hard ice. after climbing the four āDenteā we rappel down to the Glacier and walked back to the refudge. The snow was very soft but we arrived at 16:00 in the sun after 1 hour of snow plowing.
Sunday morning 5:30 time to go down after a other bad night with loads of rain and storms the snow din’t freese up. So it was a long way down.
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