After the “Demtez- Gluck” we wanted to climb a bit harder route.
Messner was the route of choice 8 pitches all around grade 6.
Again to find the start of the route was a pain. When we found the start some Eastern Europeans decided to bail because of the wet rock.
We thought it was a good idea to start a bit to the right in”Plattenspieler”. But we never found the way back to the Messner route…
We used the “topo guide” topo, its really good as long as your on route.
But to navigate with it when your off route is a nightmare .
There are not enough references on the map to find your way home.
So we where confronted with loads of very steep terrain wet rock and 20 meter + run outs.
Every time I thought: “I cant go on” already 15 meters above my last “sanduhr”. ThenI found an other good sequence of handholds to find myself again higher and higher above the last shitty 15- year-old peace of rope looped through some shitty rock.
Going down no option. Looking up just more steep terrain and no place for protection or fixed pro insight.. So you decide to climb on and on…
When I finally found some pro it looked like this.. :p
Instead of the 8 pitches we made over 15 but made it to the top. To find a very confused guide that didn’t really understand that we climbed the Messner because it was too wet and “not” possible to climb the wall :p .
July 27th “restday”
Climbing the WW1 tunnel system and a viaferrata over the old Austrian military “road”. No rest day at all but great fun to go through the old army tunnel by torchlight and see how they climbed there way through the mountains.
Messner Sella Turm 2
After the “Demtez- Gluck” we wanted to climb a bit harder route.
Messner was the route of choice 8 pitches all around grade 6.
Again to find the start of the route was a pain. When we found the start some Eastern Europeans decided to bail because of the wet rock.
We thought it was a good idea to start a bit to the right in”Plattenspieler”. But we never found the way back to the Messner route…
We used the “topo guide” topo, its really good as long as your on route.
But to navigate with it when your off route is a nightmare .
There are not enough references on the map to find your way home.
So we where confronted with loads of very steep terrain wet rock and 20 meter + run outs.
Every time I thought: “I cant go on” already 15 meters above my last “sanduhr”. ThenI found an other good sequence of handholds to find myself again higher and higher above the last shitty 15- year-old peace of rope looped through some shitty rock.
Going down no option. Looking up just more steep terrain and no place for protection or fixed pro insight.. So you decide to climb on and on…
When I finally found some pro it looked like this.. :p
Instead of the 8 pitches we made over 15 but made it to the top. To find a very confused guide that didn’t really understand that we climbed the Messner because it was too wet and “not” possible to climb the wall :p .
July 27th “restday”
Climbing the WW1 tunnel system and a viaferrata over the old Austrian military “road”. No rest day at all but great fun to go through the old army tunnel by torchlight and see how they climbed there way through the mountains.
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