July 20th After Chamonix our goal is the Dolomite mountains.
Traveling to Italy without a rush so loads of time to Climb along the way.
We choose to go through Switzerland take the long way over the mountain passes.
First stop after Martigny: Sanetsch.
A nice quiet pass with a big limestone wall of 300 m. The road leading here is small and loads off hairpins. Climbing up with the Syncro about 2000Meters. We climbed a classic route made by the Remy Brothers. So very unexpected but great line crazy homemade bolts and runouts on the “easy” slabs…
July 21th Sanetsch–> Briggerbad –> Haldenstein
Next stop Sport Climbing in Brigerbad Trying to Climb “icezapfen” 7c+ way to hard/ hot for me :p .
So when the Sun hit the wall just after noon it was time to drive on.
We drove to Haldenstein and climbed some very old slab routes and a small multi pitch (Bonatti) in the Dark before it was time to go to sleep.
July 22th Haldenstein–> Otztal
Some more rock climbing along the way in Haldenstein on the Border of Switserland and Austria.
More slabs a 6b+ multi-pitch route Via Ratia. The first lengths where good but the last 2 pitches in the Burning sun on a big slab where difficult to climb. So we drove on to Otztal Marianne’s Childhood holiday place number one. We walked up to the Stubenfalle and climbed the Via-Ferreta next to this wonderful waterfall. After the climb we took a “shower” in the spray of the waterfall on one of the lower platforms. Great cooling down. To warm up again we ran down to the Kneipe to cool down our feet.
July 23th Otztal Austria Niederthai
Time to do some training again so we Climbed in the forest at Niederthai on a very special place for Marianne. The place where she saw real rockclimbing for the first time 20 years ago. Now she was able to climb those routes herself such a great place to climb when the Sun is burning down all day long.
July 25th Passo del Selle
Finally our destination The Dolomites The first climb to get used to the rock : “Demtez- Gluck”.
Only to find the start of the route was a pain. A new area and no good map. So no idea about the names of the towers.
But somehow we started climbing tower number 4 . We even found the right route (we found out on top in the “Topbook”).
Dolomiti
July 20th After Chamonix our goal is the Dolomite mountains.
Traveling to Italy without a rush so loads of time to Climb along the way.
We choose to go through Switzerland take the long way over the mountain passes.
First stop after Martigny: Sanetsch.
A nice quiet pass with a big limestone wall of 300 m. The road leading here is small and loads off hairpins. Climbing up with the Syncro about 2000Meters. We climbed a classic route made by the Remy Brothers. So very unexpected but great line crazy homemade bolts and runouts on the “easy” slabs…
July 21th Sanetsch–> Briggerbad –> Haldenstein
Next stop Sport Climbing in Brigerbad Trying to Climb “icezapfen” 7c+ way to hard/ hot for me :p .
So when the Sun hit the wall just after noon it was time to drive on.
We drove to Haldenstein and climbed some very old slab routes and a small multi pitch (Bonatti) in the Dark before it was time to go to sleep.
July 22th Haldenstein–> Otztal
Some more rock climbing along the way in Haldenstein on the Border of Switserland and Austria.
More slabs a 6b+ multi-pitch route Via Ratia. The first lengths where good but the last 2 pitches in the Burning sun on a big slab where difficult to climb. So we drove on to Otztal Marianne’s Childhood holiday place number one. We walked up to the Stubenfalle and climbed the Via-Ferreta next to this wonderful waterfall. After the climb we took a “shower” in the spray of the waterfall on one of the lower platforms. Great cooling down. To warm up again we ran down to the Kneipe to cool down our feet.
July 23th Otztal Austria Niederthai
Time to do some training again so we Climbed in the forest at Niederthai on a very special place for Marianne. The place where she saw real rockclimbing for the first time 20 years ago. Now she was able to climb those routes herself such a great place to climb when the Sun is burning down all day long.
July 25th Passo del Selle
Finally our destination The Dolomites The first climb to get used to the rock : “Demtez- Gluck”.
Only to find the start of the route was a pain. A new area and no good map. So no idea about the names of the towers.
But somehow we started climbing tower number 4 . We even found the right route (we found out on top in the “Topbook”).
Related