Drytooling Kamasutra Flash sounds like a ‘different’ thing. But no, it’s just ‘iceclimbing’. Really.
How to kill a Nomic iceaxe/aka Kamasutra D13+ flash!
Iseo, Italy just days after the Worldcup in Saas Fee. Before the last stage at Rabenstein we wanted to relax, climb and enjoy the Italian sun. We need to. I picked up the cold Dennis has been suffering since Korea. Coughing, and my nose is just blocked constantly. Not the best shape I reckon…
So there we went, after lunch. Lazy, like sports climbers. And there at Bus del Quai we were welcomed by Team Canada, Team USA and team Italy. Angelika had invited some friends and they were all hanging in great big routes.
We warmed up, got irritated by our whining dog, got some food from Marco, and tried the M12 with an extremely long move. That didn’t really feel too good.
Meanwhile Angi had showed Gordon how to do the big route called Kamasutra. I saw how she easily moved though the roof and was impressed. That’s how a Worldcup winner climbs. She’s good!
Gordon got to try the route. He moved incredibly good trough all the moves, Angi really guided him up. She knows that route blindfolded.Not far from the top (I believe just three or four quickdraws to go) Gordon fell and left his tool dangling up there.
After a while his tool was still stuck up there and I decided I could give it a go. Just because. No expecting to get even close to climbing it.I moved, moved and did I-don’t-know-how-many-figure-of-fours. Sorry, no DTS style.Angi and Gordon both told me where to go, how to take the next hold. And then I was there. I held the tool but it wasn’t placed right anymore. Instead of climbing on with the extra tool I dropped it. As what would have happened anyway. I threw it down a little away to avoid hitting people below me. The move wasn’t too easy, especially tricky on the feet. I got my own tool into the hold and managed to move on. And on.
Aaron was climbing next to me and stopped his climb and encouraged me to go on. I still had no idea. Just a few moves more and I realised I was super close to top the route! Okay, keep calm now. Shaking, getting my normal breathe back I moved on, and on. Till the last long move. “Now you have to clip from here” Angi called up. I had the last hold. I clipped the anchor and was so surprised.
Did I really just flash Kamasutra?
The route I didn’t even dare to look at previously. I just ‘accidentally’ flashed D13+ Gordon found his tool in the bush beneath the cave and surprised us all. The iceaxe was broken! In two pieces. I felt sorry, guilty! And I owe him a tool. I’m happy though, never thought of climbing this route flash!
Big thanks to Angelika Rainer, Marco, team Canada/USA for the encouragements and beta and my belayer/Drytool teacher: Dennis Let’s go for the next big flash