Last weekend, April 12,13 and 14 2014 we climbed the classic 1938 Heckmaier route on the North Face of the Eiger.
The weather was far from perfect. Full snow on the first day and incredible wind on the second and third day.
Yes, it took us three days… Much longer then expected. Mainly because of our non-exisiting water reserve: our stove didn’t work! We tried, and tried but weren’t able to melt any snow for our dinner and breakfast.
With just a bit of snow melting with our body warmth we climbed on as turning back was no option. The thirst made us slow, really slow. The fresh snow layer that covered any hand/axe/foothold didn’t help us either. We didn’t make it to the top on the second day and spent the night sitting in the Corti-bivouac. Dennis was tired of sitting on his ass and even managed to sleep on his knees (so yoga does work?). I noticed he was sleeping as he was snoring pretty loud (so sweet).
The next day we climbed the tricky last pitches and topped out in full storm. We were just in time to catch the train down to Grindelwald and drove home.
As luck wasn’t really on our hand, my car decided to bail on me too. The dynamo broke down, so we needed some help to kick-start the car… Hopefully we can fix it in time before we go the the next project: Malta and then… Alaska!
Eiger 1938 route
Last weekend, April 12,13 and 14 2014 we climbed the classic 1938 Heckmaier route on the North Face of the Eiger.
The weather was far from perfect. Full snow on the first day and incredible wind on the second and third day.
Yes, it took us three days… Much longer then expected. Mainly because of our non-exisiting water reserve: our stove didn’t work! We tried, and tried but weren’t able to melt any snow for our dinner and breakfast.
With just a bit of snow melting with our body warmth we climbed on as turning back was no option. The thirst made us slow, really slow. The fresh snow layer that covered any hand/axe/foothold didn’t help us either. We didn’t make it to the top on the second day and spent the night sitting in the Corti-bivouac. Dennis was tired of sitting on his ass and even managed to sleep on his knees (so yoga does work?). I noticed he was sleeping as he was snoring pretty loud (so sweet).
The next day we climbed the tricky last pitches and topped out in full storm. We were just in time to catch the train down to Grindelwald and drove home.
As luck wasn’t really on our hand, my car decided to bail on me too. The dynamo broke down, so we needed some help to kick-start the car… Hopefully we can fix it in time before we go the the next project: Malta and then… Alaska!
Eiger Nordwand/ Northface from Vertical Life on Vimeo.
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